Block vs Draped Patterns

We have recently been getting questions on the difference between our block patterns vs our draped patterns. Gayle (one of our Seam Team/testers) wrote up this great description:

What we have done with very intricate and detailed mathematical formulas is to teach the computer to drape the way a hands-on designer would do it with the actual fabric.

So the two main categories of patterns are Block and Draped.

Block
These patterns follow traditional flat pattern-drafting methods and use fewer measurements. The darts are positioned in a standard location (eg, halfway between Points A and B). The fit will be better than RTW because the computer is told your shoulder length, side seam length, etc.

Draped
These patterns allow the darting to point to where it is actually needed on any individual. These are all those apex depth and span measurements. We tell the computer where we stick out (bust, abdomen, butt, cheeks) and how far we stick out. The darts are then drafted to accommodate those specific shapes.

Differences in the Patterns
The circumferences will be the same but the shape, angle, and length of the darts will be customized to each body. This allows a smoother fit and the darts virtually disappear into the garment (esp if you are using a print). The only time you see them are in pastel solids and even then they mold the garment to the body and aren't calling attention to themselves.

So the bust apex, depth, and span would be the first step in a draped pattern and are actually included in our block patterns. In upper-body garments, the shoulder apex, depth, and span give us better darts from the shoulder seam to accommodate rounded backs (to whatever degree it is needed). In pants and skirts the abdomen, butt, and cheek msts will give us better fitting capabilities -- especially needed by H and O body shapes.

We know that all those extra measurements can be a hassle and challenging to capture, but once you have them you will never sew block patterns again!

Even though I am an A body shape and the block-drafted patterns work for me, it is because As and Xs have the body base below the hips. When the pants draft to that larger measurement, they are then able to fall from the prominent point to the floor. So a quasi-draped pattern.

Os and Hs have the body base above the hips and that same approach will not work for their bodies without creating very large pant legs. So this darting will give them the upper fit they need and allow the pants legs to be more fitted to their slender legs.

I did a test on Monday (after the conference) of the draped pants for As and the front and back waist darts better address my curves and I don't have as much of an issue getting the back darts to end smoothly at the top of the butt. What I had was pretty good and that was a combination of curving the darts when I stitched, using Louise Cutting's tip of a piece of lining fabric at the end of the dart, and steaming over a pressing ham. But I still had a tiny bubble that I couldn't avoid because the dart needs to point at just a slightly different angle for it to be completely smooth.

So hang in there all -- Kat is making revolutionary strides!