T-Shirt - darted - shaped - no bsd

[albertkj]

I made up this t-shirt in Powerdry (Raspberry - probably visible for miles) for a gardening tshirt. I removed ALL the extra ease that had been added and did the pattern with zero extra except for 1.5 inches front and back wrist. I Did add 5 inches to the length.

I love it - it is heavenly - long sleeves to protect my arms and I worked outside today without getting overly uncomfortable from the heat (and I hate working in the heat).

Sorry - no pics - fits perfectly but that doesn't mean it is flattering and when I saw the pics I had Jim take, I refused to post them.  I will bring it to next design and stitch.

I finished all the edges (neck, bottom, wrists) with what I call a lingerie finish, like I put on the bottom of my tricot camisoles. It's a reverse hemstitch and has the effect of scalloping the edge. The rest I serged, even the darts. Fast and comfortable.

I have one cut out for my sister, and am going to make a couple more for myself. Just thought I'd share since the board is so quiet.

Kathryn Albert

[Diva Linda]

I have not worked with knits much so I was interested in the zero ease thing.  Does it work for  most knits or not?  Linda

[albertkj]

Depends on the pattern, the fabric, and the application.

Pattern - I believe Kat it doing her patterns (correction here if warranted please) so that if you have 0 (zero) in all the optional places, you'll get a well fitting garment. There is a boatload of documentation out there that talks about 'wearing ease' vs 'design ease' but if the pattern is correct for the body and the fabric, you don't want a boatload of 'ease"(which is what readymades use to make work across a wide range of body shapes - you can get into the dang things - and hang however they do - i.e. they don't really fit). See the discussion elsewhere about Eve L Ease.

Fabric - Powerdry is a bit more stretchy than nylon tricot I'd say. but I certainly don't want something stre-e-e-tched around this body - not a pretty site. On the other hand, I wanted it a close enough fit that the wicking properties would work. It is a Malden Mills fabric - mine is silky weight that I got from Ressy, aka EFQ. And gardening is very active work. If I made this up in a light weight woven, it would fit, though doing something as active as gardening (I reach a lot since I sit on a small stool to weed) might be a challenge. I could probably wear a woven made with the same pattern for less active activity. I'm getting pretty hooked on the movability of fabrics with a bit of stretch. If you have a knit that 'grows' - different statement - and this would certainly not be a pattern/use I'd want for something like heavyweight cotton poplin regardless of what you do with the ease.

Application - I specifically wanted this for something that supports a lot of bending and stretching. For example, I do not garden in jeans - use something knit. Turns out the fabric takes care of the movement - so I don't have to have it hanging all over my body. It actually does not pull tight anywhere except when I am reaching. 

If you're using Complete Clothier patterns, try zero ease regardless of the fabric and do a quick muslin in something similar to what you want to use really. Or you can measure, but I didn't do that. Then go from there.  I treat knits pretty much like wovens with respect to pattern, size, and ease. The exception might be how I actually sew them, where I might use a serger for knits.

Hope that helps.
Kathryn

[Diva Linda]

Thanks,  I liked your explanation.  LINDA

[albertkj]

I'm glad it was helpful. I'll let you know how the one for my sister turns out.

Kathryn

[albertkj]

My sister's fits better than any readymade ever - but it does have some issues around the shoulder & armscye - but we've never remeasured her with the new information gleaned over the last months. I'm hoping to do that in September if she can meet me in Chicago. Note that she has such a straight back that there was no back dart - and she has a somewhat challenging upper body to fit, so she is thrilled with the shirt.

Kathryn

[marie80503]

Hi Kathryn,

As I read your message I was wearing my raspberry work out shirt from Ressy’s Power Dry too!  I self lined the front – to help it skim over the bumps – but I’m wondering if I messed up the wicking properties.  By self lining it I probably have the wrong side next to my skin.  Oh well, I’ll try again as I have lots of Power Dry!

Marie

[albertkj]

I don't know Marie - have heard mixed reviews, but certainly you can make it double in front - just put the 'pearl' side of both layers toward your skin. 

The wicking is one reason (besides speed) that I finished it the way I did.  No hems on the edges.

One thing I did discover when I handed it to Ruth and said 'see if will go over your head' is that the powerdry will run from one direction, so make sure you tug at each end to see which end does that, and then lay out your pattern pieces with the bottom toward the end that runs - less strain down there (usually). 

Kathryn